Hey everyone!

Yesterday was the big show in Amsterdam. I hope all of you had fun to see the best competition climbers at work! If not, watch it here again.

Livestream lead nationals 2015

This championship was an important day on my calendar. Since I entered the lead competition, I was serious about competing, wanting to fight and win. I marked this day as a highpoint to see how fit I am at the moment.

Warming up in the iso for 2 hours seemed no problem. Despite my fever, cold and cough last week, I could set my mind to relax and focus on this one route.

Presentation

When I arrived at the gym, I was really curious what kind of route Tonde had set for us. My first impression of the route was: this route is set for me, this is all about compression, a lot of volumes, awesome!! The holds looked big, maybe one crux near the long snake hold into an undercling, but with good feet work I should be able to manage that. I used my monocular to check out the holds on top.

silhouette

The beginning was hard to see, because I was standing just below the route, moving to left or right didn’t really improve the view.
In short, the route looked really cool. I couldn’t wait to climb in this ambiance, with so many people cheering, among supporters and friends!

Walking back to isolation, my head was set to competition mode. It was time to wear my harness, pick the right shoes and wait for my turn.

Once I entered the gym, I was really looking forward to climb! I didn’t want to climb too fast or too slow. The first 3 draws were no problem at all. I was even able to find a good rest position in the beginning by sitting on this huge volume with my foot. From here I moved onwards to the next volume. The next step was a big move, where I moved my right hand first and went for a jump.

NKLead
Photocredits: Sytse van Slooten

Once my feet didn’t get any pressure anymore it felt like I was pulled away from the wall. I didn’t see the hold on top of the volume, just a vague tickmark. It happened all too fast before I realized what had happened. I was back on the floor.

My thoughts right after the climb: What the F@##!%$#@%!$#!!??@

I wanted to express my feeling by screaming out loud, throwing my shoes against the wall or throw away my chalkbag, but no I’m not like that and so I remained calm :( I was really disappointed in myself. I should’ve jumped with 2 hands, one aiming for the tickmark, the other aiming for the corner of the volume.

When I untied the rope, Ulf told me the same had happened to him. I was hoping no one else would struggle so early in the route. There are risks taken if a route is set like this. A risky show element is fun for everyone, however in my opinion not so early in the route. I think the crowd would have been more entertained if they could have seen the climbers fight all the way in the route!

After my performance it was Gerke’s turn. He trained a year for this and I was hoping for him he wouldn’t struggle at the same move. Unfortunately, he fell at the same volume, making exactly the same mistake. I felt really sorry for him. Fortunately, the rest of the climbers could manage this move easy without any trouble.

I was wondering what the audience was thinking. I let everyone down; my family, my friends and my supporters. I wasn’t able to fight or enjoy the route. At that moment I had so many questions going through my mind. Is this what I have trained for the past few weeks? I spent many hours in the gym for this. Does this mean I am weak? How far would Ulf, Gerke and I get if we all passed this move? Was I able to top the route if I managed that move? Did I climb too safe? Did I make a reading mistake? I don’t know, but I do know that I wasn’t fucking pumpy or could fight before I fell out of the route. The way I deal with my performance during and after the competition is also part of competition climbing. 1 tiny mistake and you’re out of the game.

The route was set magnificently, no doubt about that. After the competition I had a short evaluation with chiefsetter Tonde Katiyo and asked him about his thoughts. In short: he felt sorry for us but he was satisfied about the route.

Tonde

In the end the learned lessons are: better luck next time and perhaps walk into the space of the audience to check out the holds of the route.

I ended up 8th yesterday which doesn’t satisfy me at all. Click here to view the results. I still feel disappointed about my result, knowing that this was just a snapshot. Instead of a highpoint, it felt like a lowpoint to me. In the week before the nationals I was doubting about participating because I had a severe cold. So in that respect I’m happy that I was part of the nationals. However, I
would have loved to have climbed higher and show how far I could have gotten.

Anyway, thank you for all the love and support. I hope I pleased the crowd and I’m happy for the climbers who were able to fight, shine and climb yesterday!

Hello climbers!

Saturday 28th of november the Lotto NC Lead 2015 will be hosted at De Klimmuur Centraal in Amsterdam. Check out on this website who will fight for the Dutch Champion title and buy your tickets for €10, in the webshop. [Text and source: NKBV.nl] Unfortunately the tickets are sold out…

Audience2014

The poll results shows that I have the most supporters. I feel honoured for that. I will have oodles of fun tomorrow, that’s for sure 😉 Can’t make it to Amsterdam? No problem, you can check the livestream at home!

Click here for the startlist.
Dinner will start from 5.30 PM voor €7,50-.
Women will start from 7.00 PM.
Men will start from 8.15 PM.
Price ceremony will start approximately from 10.00 PM.

I think I will be climbing at 8.30 PM! I’m looking forward to it and you? Enjoy watching the livestream and please cheer for me because I think I will need it 😀 See you tomorrow :)

Livestream lead nationals 2015

NKBV_2014_NK

Foto: Truong tijdens het NK in 2014

You know, I’m always curious what everyone thinks when it comes to the results of the Lead Nationals. I created a poll for you. Please vote and lets find out if your result will come true in 2 weeks!

Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Lynn van der Meer (29%, 21 Votes)
  • Aniek Lith (14%, 10 Votes)
  • Pauline Schreurs (10%, 7 Votes)
  • Tiba Vroom (8%, 6 Votes)
  • Roelien van de Vrie (7%, 5 Votes)
  • Nikki van Bergen (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Marianne van der Steen (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Iris Straatsma (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Corien Prins (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 72

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Who will offer the audience the biggest surprise during the Nationals? Wie zorgt voor de grootste verrassing tijdens het NK Sportklimmen?

  • Truong Ngo (29%, 22 Votes)
  • Mark Brand (13%, 10 Votes)
  • Gerke Hoekstra (13%, 10 Votes)
  • Nigel Armino (12%, 9 Votes)
  • Don van Laere (9%, 7 Votes)
  • Casper ten Sijthoff (8%, 6 Votes)
  • Ulf Lennertz (5%, 4 Votes)
  • Tim Reuser (4%, 3 Votes)
  • Wouter van Roessel (1%, 1 Votes)
  • Tom Reuvers (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 75

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Put this date November 28th in your calendar, it will be excited! NC Lead, get your tickets here.

Last weekend was the final option to qualify for the Lead Nationals. This competition was held at Ivy climbing gym in Sittard. It was a beautiful weekend to climb outdoors but I signed up for this competition last minute. It was my 2nd competition of the year and wanted to check out my lead fitness at the moment.

poster

I climbed a few routes to warm up. When I checked out the competitors list, I saw a lot of climbers who didn’t show up. I was hoping to compete against 18 other men, but only 12 showed up :(

menlist

womenlist

Here’s a side note to all competitors: Please sign out if you don’t compete. Thank you in advance.

@NKBV: I think we could improve this process by changing our current signup process. There are 4 qualification comps in total. When you sign up online for a competition, you should pay immediately instead of paying on arrival at the competition. This could be a major block to enter a competition, however it shows a clear list of the competitors for a game. Ulf suggested another alternative: when you sign up and not show up at the competition, you’ll receive a yellow card. When you receive 2 yellow cards, you’re out of the game – disqualified – no championship.

From the climbing gym’s point of view, it’s good to know how many competitors show up. I see benefits for the gym, judges and motivated competitors. This way we could avoid the no-show-ups, this is a win-win situation for everyone I think. I hope the competition committee will read and think about this process for next year.

It was fun to see that there was a big difference between age. No longer was I part of the youngsters, but part of the old climbers. Well old climbers like me, came prepared with comp experience 😀 I was here to collect points, so I could still enter the lead championships. In short, there was no room for errors, pure business.

The first qualification was fun. From sight it looked like it was a 6c but when I climbed it, it felt more like 7a+. I made a little mistake at the end of the route however I was able to recover from that and managed to top out the route.

Q1.2

Q1.1

Q1 (Custom)

The second route seemed a bit harder. Chiefsetter Ollie climbed the route as a demo and tried his very best to make this route look like at least 7c+ / 8a.

Q2.5

Q2.4

The crux part for me was to get past the round volume. When I was climbing, I felt okay getting into this kneebar but passing the following 3 holds was the crux. It was enough to advance to the finals of this comp.

Q2 (Custom)

Overall pic (Custom)

finallist

The final route was a nice test piece for me. Again it was set in the overhang. I focused on the last few holds. I knew it was going to be hard from ¾ of the route. The first part of the route felt good to me. I was struggling with some feet sequence but that didn’t stop me from climbing.

F1.3

F1.2

F1

At the end I was surprised that only Casper managed to climb higher than me with 1 hold. I expected at least 2 climbers would pass me, but that didn’t happen. I was happy I ended up 2nd!! Yeah! Silver wooohooo! 😀

Podium

I collected enough points to enter the Lead Championships for this year. My goal for today was achieved. I guess my fitness is okay so far and still have some time to train hard 😉 Click here to view the overall results. See you next time in Amsterdam! 😀

@Paul Lahaye: Thanks for the awesome photos!
@Anouk: Thanks for driving and making snapshots :)

outdoor madnessYesterday I was informed about one of the biggest outdoor events in The Netherlands: Outdoor Madness, which is supported by Salt.

It will be hosted in Bergschenhoek on October 4th.

There will be challenging outdoor activities. Between the activities you can enjoy healthy drinks and snacks. Check out this less healthy Madness burger!

OSO_Schappendag_456

If you’re looking for outdoor clothing, you’ll be at the right spot. Sample sale. Yes, that’s right: Sample sale.

You won’t need any tickets for this and there will be plenty brands available: La Sportiva, Arc’teryx, Super.Natural, Icebreaker, Mountain Hardwear, Hâglofs, Maloja, Macpac, Bergans, Blue Loop, Schoffel, Chillaz, Nathan, Buff, Berghaus, Salomon, Trangoworld and more. Shop till you drop 😀

There are some side events as well. Click here to see which ones. Or check their Facebook.

Most likely I will be there to check it out. Will you be there as well?

Navigate to:
Outdoor Valley
Hoeksekade 141
2661 JL, Bergschenhoek

See you around!

Hey there!

I just spotted this video and want to share it with you.

Everyone in the climbing scene probably have heard of La Sportiva ambassador Jorg Verhoeven and we’re proud of him! He free climbed The Nose on Yosemite’s El Capitan. In my opinion one of the most impressive climbs in history. Louder Than 11 did a good job on video editing.

Check it out!

Video: Jorg Verhoeven’s ascent of the most famous route in the world

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