Yesterday I joined the car with Dirk, Jorg and Timo to Amsterdam. I felt quite relaxed for the competition.
Once we entered the gym in Amsterdam, it was quite crowded. I was thinking of warming up in some routes instead of warming up in a boulder area. I found myself a belaying buddy and climbed a few routes. The judges informed me that there was free food for the competitors while I was belaying. After climbing I enjoyed my free meal in the isolation area.
Soon the finals were about to start and we were briefed by Jorg and the judges about the finals. The ladies went out first and I was still in the isolation with the guys. I knew I had to start first when the ladies were done climbing, so I tried to keep myself warm.
It was finally time to get out the isolation. We were first introduced one by one to the audience. It was super crowded. I was standing in the spotlights, had my shoes ready and thought I had to stay after reading the route. When I first saw the route I was quite impressed. Immediately my eyes were focused on two volumes with a crack in between. Awesome! I knew I had to make a double handjam, but I had never done that before. Anyway, the rest of the route, seemed quite nice. There was a hidden knee bar, a lot of heelhooks, crossing over and no dyno’s! I was focusing at the spots where to clip the draws. The prep time was over and I had to get myself ready in the isolation.
When the speaker announced my name, I felt quite energized! I ran towards the wall. I just felt like climbing. I was enjoying every moment of it.
The first part of the route was a warmup, until I had to conduct a double hand jam. It was okay to put one hand between the crack, however when I tried to match my right hand, it felt awkward. As if my left hand was about to slip out of the crack! For a moment I looked at my own hand, was it damaged? No it wasn’t. Great! So lets give it another try and jam it in there. I thought it was quite funny though. It didn’t really work with my feet below me. I needed more pressure on my foot to keep myself in the wall. I climbed back and thought of an alternative as I was resting for a bit. This time I placed a heelhook just below my right hand and matched my hand deep in the crack. My theory was the more skin between the crack, the better it stays in there and it worked! Pfff, 2 minutes later, I finally passed that first crux and I was still 6 meters above the ground.
Then I went onto the next holds, which were all positive. Until I grabbed these 2 white holds behind the volume, slopey holds which you had to pinch. From here, I felt a little bit uncomfy. My feet placement were directly below me as I had to go to the volume above me. I felt like I was going to launch myself like a rocket. There was no other footholds, except for that huge green hold. I chose not to use it and place both my feet below me. I launched myself like a rocket without even getting close to the volume. Shit. That was it. I knew that wasn’t the right position for this reachy move. I’m upset that I couldn’t fight until the end. On the contrary, I was happy to be part of this event. I had some mixed feelings, knowing that I could have done much better. Anyway, I accepted the fact and it was time to move on and cheer on the rest of the competitors!
As I untied myself, I was instructed to seat next to this guy with a red hoody. I was on a doping control! What in the world? Are you serious? I wasn’t allowed to go to the restroom and was under surveillance until the end of the competition.
After the competition, I had to go outside, step into a big van and piss under commando. Well, it took me quite a while. To be honest, it’s quite a tedious process. Fill in your name, address, doctor, coach and having this guy observing you while you do your thing in a restroom in a van. Anyway, when that was all done, I went back to the gym. Most of the competitors and friends were gone. Such a pity, I wanted to share some emotions about the route. Time to go home.
I was happy for Tim who topped out the route. Unfortunately I didn’t see any of the ladies climbing live, but I watched the streaming when I was home. It was fun to hear the comments of Paul and Dirk. The ladies had an amazing route as well! I ended up last this final (click to see final scores here), but I had oodles of fun and enjoyed being in Amsterdam. @Jorg, thanks for setting such an awesome route!
Note to self: I know what to work on, climbing cracks!
Watch the finals back here. My action starts at 01:08. Have fun!
Come Saturday november 22nd the last lead competition of the year will be held in Amsterdam. This venue has a great atmosphere to host a championship.
I haven’t competed in many lead competitions lately, so I’m really excited to be back in the spotlights again!
During the semi finals a few weeks ago, I barely advanced to the finals. I guess I was lucky and now I’m one of the 8 finalists who may climb a final route set by one of the world’s best allrounders Jorg Verhoeven. I’m curious about his setting style and I hope it will suit me!
The Lead National championship has a day programme where I will start climbing exactly at 20:15 hours. I will enjoy the most out of it. Anyway, see you in Amsterdam, otherwise if you cannot make it, there will be livestream available.
Wish me luck
Today I will show you to another training video with Vera!
I was wondering if I should go to a sportsgym to climb routes or go to a bouldergym. I ended up in the bouldergym once again. Instead of just climbing on holds I wanted to make my training a bit more interesting and challenging. Let’s think outside the box! I introduce you these fun soft addons specially made for climbing.
What to do with it? Well, add it on a training wall and I challenge you to avoid it or to climb through the loops! I added another challenge, which are some extra draws to make myself more tired while avoiding the addons.
And my rest in between the series was decided by a dice. I ended up with 2 minutes rest in between.
Anyway, I recorded a little bit of my fun training. I ran out of memory when I wanted to climb a 32 moves boulder on the 40 degree training wall, estimated 8b route….better luck next time. Check it out!
I am just done with editing a training video. I need to say that I was rusty in editing earlier this week. I spent more time on editing than filming the action!
Some background information, this was my 6th climbing session in 4 days(!) This time I looked into a campus board training. After the training I still feel energized, however my skin feels quite sensitive.
This video is based on Sean McColl’s campus board training. I followed his workout on the rungs, skipped some extra rests and it feels good. Vera joined me on this training. To be honest, it is much more fun to train together!
rest = 90 seconds
Up by 1’s – skipped rest
Up by 1’s – rest
Up by 2’s – skipped rest
Up by 2’s – rest
Big dynamic moves – skipped rest
Big dynamic moves – rest
Bumping left hand – skipped rest
Bumping right hand – rest
Bumping left hand – skipped rest
Bumping right hand – rest
Double up by 1’s – skipped rest
Double up by 2’s – rest
Offset double up by 1’s (left hand high) – skipped rest
Offset double up by 1’s (right hand high) – rest
Offset by 2, alternating hands (last exercise of Sean’s workout)
Over onto the orange holds – 15 pullups – 10 pullups (finished on exercises)
Watch the video below.
Then Vera and I went bouldering for another 1,5 hours.
2,5 hours later our climbing session finished. Efficient and productive, that’s the way I like it
Since a week I have set some goals for the end of this year.
The reason for that is that I want to feel fit when I climb outdoors. You know that feeling, that you’re in a climbing gym and you’re just maintaining your body and fingerstrength but actually you’re not pushing yourself at all? Well, I’m about to change that!
I have been climbing 5 days in a row, 1 day rest, climbed again for 2 days and here we are. Sometimes when I have more time you will find me at the gym multiple times a day. Of course I will climb with a schedule and won’t climb every day. Eventually my aim is to have effective training sessions. For now I was having a short session in the afternoon, got a good rest and had another climbing session in the evening.
Anyway, I have been sharing some videos and photos on Instagram and Facebook. Well, here is an edited version of some pullups which I did yesterday after 6 effective hours at the gym spread out during the day. I’m a bit rusty in editing videos now but it’s better than nothing right? If you’re at Monk, give it a try but be careful with your fingers
Good afternoon digital climbers!
Soon there will be the Reel Rock Film Tour. I have been going to these shows for a few years in a row now and I still like them a lot. Here is a trailer, where Goal Zero is quite present, but who cares right? It’s all about the footage and the final result
Enjoy and see you on November 1st in Eindhoven at Reel Rock 9.